Tuesday 5 December 2006

False modesty

Pin Khlao
The night before the King's birthday, a fair is held in Mum's street close to the riverside in Pin Khlao. Traders set up temporary stalls to hawk their wares. At one end, visitors can also take rides on a Ferris wheel. The fair attracts hundreds every year, and last night was no exception.

I turned up about 11pm, only to find Mum's small shop packed with guys watching sport on TV. No fun there, so I walked up and down the street half a dozen times, enjoying the scenery.

Late in the evening, I finally secured a spot for myself at Mum's shop counter. From there, I could watch the action on the street.

I saw one gay couple walking arm in arm through the crowds like regular lovers. Mr Tall and Mr Short were well dressed. They did not care what anyone thought, and Thais, being a tolerant lot, were not bothered either.

Gays have a way of spotting each other in a crowd - it doesn't matter how many hundreds of people are going past. I gave them a smile and they returned it.

Earlier, on one of my first sorties down the street, I came across a young man with his jeans hanging half way down his bottom. He obviously liked to wear his pants in that style, as he was wearing a belt, so could have worn them higher if he had wanted.

His scruffy jeans were so loose that he had to walk like a cowboy, pushing his legs out crab-style, to stop them falling off.

This was intriguing behaviour, as I did not know whose attention he was trying to attract. I walked up alongside him, to gauge his reaction.

All night, I saw only one other foreigner. Mr Cowboy looked so surprised to see me, his pants almost fell down. We set about playing the game where he follows me down one side of the street, and I follow him back up the other.

I did not loosen my pants to show my tail feathers, as I am too old. What you see is what you get. We walked up and down a few times, until I felt hot and in need of rest. I sat at a bus stop where I could watch him, but lost him in the crowd.

Previously, we had been careful to go slow enough so that each could keep pace with the other, a safe few paces ahead or behind. At one point he crouched down to inspect some shoes. He was wearing blue boxers. At that moment his pants fell so low that he had to make a hurried grab, to avoid losing them altogether.

Then he stood up and adjusted his belt - but was careful to pull it in only so far. Young ones who like to show their goods only pull their pants up a little: just above the butt, where they sit for a moment before beginning their slow descent down the backside again.

Later, I stopped for a noodle outside a friend's shop. He had set up his cart just 15m from Mum's place, and occasionally I would go down and give him a sip from my drink.

While I was noodling, two young women who live in the area took the table next to mine.

One put on an elaborate display of sweet modesty, which Thai girls do so well. As she sat at her table, the girl used one hand to hold down the bottom of her T-shirt, to cover the top of her jeans.

This is intended to stop men glimpsing the top of her underwear. Her attack of modesty left her sitting awkwardly - one arm behind her back, pulling down her shirt, while with the other she attempted to eat her noodles.

Thai girls think if they give their T-shirt a good pull, once, it will solve the problem, but of course their top just springs back up again. In fact, it is so ineffectual that I am often left wondering if the real purpose is not to attract attention to themselves, rather than divert it.

I walked up a flight of steps behind a Thai girl once who was anxiously pulling up her pants. Thai men did not seem to bother her, or she would not wear her clothes in such a revealing fashion. But with a sex-mad foreigner just a step behind, she was in a small panic to keep her precious virtue intact.

A girl sitting next to Miss Modesty noticed me. She flirted - pouting sullenly, poking out her tongue seductively - while providing a running commentary to her friend.

How are we supposed to make sense of these confusing signals? We can't. We just enjoy the show.

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