Tuesday, 16 September 2008

Second thoughts

Does anyone remember the Joni Mitchell song, Big Yellow Taxi?

Don’t it always seem to go
That you don't know what you’ve got
‘Til it's gone
-
'You live in a lively place. You are lucky,' said farang C, who visited me at my condo on the Thon Buri side of town for the first time yesterday, after he showed me his place in the inner city last week.

Boyfriend Maiyuu and I have set our hearts on renting a place at farang C's condo, or perhaps one close by.

After seeing farang C's place, I invited him to visit us at our condo, so he would get an idea about how we lived, out in the sticks as it were. It is the first time I have invited a farang friend here since loyal reader Ian came for a meal in April.

I took farang C to my condo, where he met Maiyuu.

He took a look out our ninth-floor window. Below is a slum sitting next to a railway line. Still, I guess the skyline looks good.

From our place, we can see a large stupa, which belongs to a temple; a private university, and a large private hospital.

Maiyuu greeted farang C, but otherwise said little and tried to stay out of sight. Maybe he was not in the mood for socialising.

Outside, it was raining.

'Here, let me help,' offered Maiyuu.

'Stand still,' he said, as he squeezed a bright orange poncho over farang C's head. He also gave us an umbrella.

'There!' he said, laughing.

'Thank you,' said farang C, impressed with Maiyuu's hospitality.

I took farang C to an eatery on the banks of the local canal.

We walked past youngsters playing basketball, and another playing area where local women were stretching and working out.

A gay man was perched on a box, leading a class in aerobics. 'He looks like he is in his element,' said C.

The eatery, which has open sides, is beside a pier. When we arrived, local teens were jumping off the pier into the canal.

They promptly asked us for B20 each, which we gave them.

One boy missed out. I told him to ask his friends to divvy up the money we had just given, as I had no more B20 notes to give.

'They won't share with me,' he said, looking dejected.

When long-tailed boats approached, most boys would clear out of the way, though a hardy few tried to grab the sides of the boat to scare the passengers, mainly foreign tourists.

The young man who wanted money popped his head in the window, and asked for money again.

'Do you have any B20 notes?' I asked farang C, as I had run out.

He gave the boy B35 in change, which he passed through the open side of the eatery.

Seeing him with money, the boy's friends swarmed around.

Wisely, the young man refused to split up the money, just as his friends had refused to share with him. He thanked farang C with a big wai .

Inside the eatery, a Thai man in his 50s was eating alone.

'Very good,' he said in English to no one in particular, referring to the dishes he ordered.

'I come to this pier every day, sometimes several times a day, because I grew up by the sea, and love the water,' I told farang C earnestly.

'I am the same...I love the water, and miss it where I live. You are lucky to have this eatery, and the canal,' he replied.

As the rainy skies cleared and the sun began to set, the last few long-tailed boats of the day went by, followed by a large passenger boat.

'I have never been to this eatery with the boyfriend, because he seldom ventures outside. I love this market, but Maiyuu barely makes use of it,' I said.

'One thing I enjoy is being able to show friends around. Almost every little shop here has a piece of history.'

'Is you boyfriend depressed? Why does he keep himself shut away all day?' farang C asked innocently. He is still getting to know us and our strange ways.

After finishing at the eatery, I took farang C on a brief tour of the market, past the local secondary school, and into the 7-11 where Mr Friendly works.

He was on duty, and looked nervous to see two large farang in his shop.

Hustling farang c out of the shop, I took him back to the condo, cutting back along the railway line.

'Would you like to visit Mum's shop in Thon Buri?'I asked.

The hour was late, but we hopped in a taxi. It took us past half a dozen massage joints and seedy nightclubs on a dimly-lit stretch of road.

'I didn't realise you had so many knock shops out here,' said C approvingly.

The market where I live is home to two barn-like massage dens, with gaudy neon signs on top. In the neighbourhood around our place, there are many more.

'I would never have to leave the market, if I had a home here,' said farang C. 'You want to swap condos? You can move into mine, and I'll live here,' he said.

He was joking, of course. But after introducing this market to my friend, I was reminded again about how much I enjoy living in an old Thai market, and how much I will miss it if we move.

6 comments:

  1. nice post! i can totally understand how we eventually develop this deep affection for our neighborhood. i'm quite possessive of my soi as well as it seems to grow a character of its own as the days pass. the people in my soi are like my family here in bangkok. and just like you i also like showing it to my friends as MY SOI.

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  2. Why not try a temporary swap? Two weeks should be enough. Bring just enough familiar items to be comfortable....and see.

    I would guess that you have heard about the financial bomb(s) that have gone-off here in NYC -if things continue to fall apart you might be able to buy something here!

    ......and I just might take my Bangkok pad seriously....tuk-tuk is not that much worse than an aircond taxi.

    Waitin' for the other shoe to fall.

    Lino

    New York City

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  3. Grass is always greener on the other side.

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  4. I don't think we'll do the swap. I visited farang C's place again today, and inspected the room which is available for rent.

    I also took a tour of the neighbourhood.

    I shall talk to the owner, and call a few other numbers which I gathered on my travels.

    I know what the immediate surroundings are like: it is quiet, and residential.

    Just five minutes, away, however, is a street heaving with farang, bars, a gay hotel...

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  5. It sounds more like real life than the new place. I hope that it doesn't put a kink in your relationship.

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  6. Kawadjan, Was Once: I doubt I could develop many feelings of loyalty to this new place. The neighbourhood is wealthy and residential.

    It lacks colour and signs of life. The houses are hidden behind huge walls.

    I could walk around there all day and meet only Burmese labourers and cleaning staff, employed by the owners of those huge homes.

    Ordinary Thais cannot afford to live in places such as those. I am not sure it feels very Thai at all. I may as well be walking around a high-end residential sub-division in the West.

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Comments are welcome, in English or Thai (I can't read anything else). Anonymous posting is discouraged, unless you'd like to give yourself a name at the bottom of your post, so we can tell who you are.